Mirror Mods (Halo, Projector, Heated Mirror)

This walk through will explain how to do all of my mirror mods. I won't discuss everything since I will assume you know how to disassemble stuff (basically unscrewing and unbolting everything in sight until the piece you want to remove falls off.)

I also need to assume you know how to wire things adequately. Here is an example of something you should know:
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-strip-and-connect-wires-with-a-butt-connect/

I did my wiring by crimping the wires together and using shrink wrap which I recommend. I didn't bother soldering, although if you do solder, I will clap for you.

+ is a positive connection that is a powered source
- is a negative connection that always must be grounded to the frame of the truck. I grounded but using a ring connector on a bolt inside the door (which is connected to the truck through the metal hinges). I did this to minimize the number of wires I had to snake through the door wiring hosey snakey thingy (you will see that later).

The Mods I did to my mirrors include adding a heated glass (for winter), and adding a halo/projector combo in place of the OEM mirror light. This combo light has 4 wires coming off of it, 2 circuits that separately control the halo and the projector.

So, in total, I had 3 pairs of wiring I had to deal with:

1. Heated mirror + and -
2. Halo + and -
3. Projector + and -

The way I wired this was:

1. Heated mirror + went to a switch on the dash, while the - was grounded inside the door
2. Halo + and - were wired to the factory mirror light + and - because they pull a low enough amount of power not to burn up the wires
3. Projector + went to a switch on the dash, while the - was grounded inside the door.

1. Removing the Mirrors

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/how-technical-articles/76574-outside-mirror-removal-blackout-inst-w-pics.html

Follow this guys awesome walkthrough for removing the mirrors

2. Once you have the mirror in front of you on a table, remove the bulb and start unscrewing everything phillips screw you can find. there are 3 to remove the initial cover, then 3 or 4 more under that that hold everything together. You want to remove this sucker (below)

3. Once you have removed this bad boy, take your projector/halo combo and sand the inside lip where the surface of the combo will touch the housing of the mirror. I used 1000grit sandpaper to rough up the edge so that the glue will stick to it. also, sand the inside edge of the mirror housing for the same reason. test fit it to see which part touches.

4. put some glue on the inside of the combo light where you sanded and place in the hole on the mirro housing. put the glue on the combo not the mirror so you dont make a mess. wipe off any excess. let it dry. you dont need to worry about the position of the wiring, but i put the halo wiring facing down.

4. Wiring up the halos is easy. I chose to chop off the factory connector and splice to the halo wires. Both factory wires look the same, so you need to just twist them together then connect it back to the car to see if the halo lights up (meaning you got the + and - correctly) before you do a final wiring job as in the photo below

The pic right above is during the test fitting to make sure I got the + and - correct!!!

5. For the projector wiring, I recommend using 16g wiring. Not too thick and not too thin (thats what she said!). Run a black and a red wiring the same Snake the wires behind the structural stuff and down to the bottom as in the photos below:

In the photo above, you will need to use a knife and slice the rubber seal thing so you can slip the wiring through it.

Make sure the red wiring is long enough to eventually snake through and reach your switch. the black wiring just needs to be long enough to ground in the middle of the door, as in the photo below.

IMPORTANT!!! See in the above photo how the wiring just goes straight across??? How the fuck will you open the window if you run it that way??? You need to snake the wires around the front of where the glass will go down as in the photo below:

Run the wires around that black thing and then through the hole facing you.

Now we need to ground all the black wires!

You can see all the silver bolts here. I just picked one and grounded on it. Use an o-ring connector here. Make sure it is nice and tight but not over-tightened

Next, we need to snake the wires through the door to the body of the truck.

.

You want to get access to this thing here (I wont describe what it looks like, just see the damn pic!). On the truck side, you just give it a yank and it will come right out (insert innuendo here). On the door side, there are 2 10mm bolts that you need to take off. In the pic above, the left side of the pic is the door side. Then snake the wires through and into the cabin. The door can now be sealed up.

The rest all depends how you want to wire them up and where you want your switches to be.

I wired mine to switches below:

The Halo lights actually controls the projector inside the halo, since the halos are wired to where the factory mirror bulbs are.

Pics all below are the final looks:

 

Here are the video link: